Pajero Differential Manual
Hi All - Mainly directed to Mr '4ePikanini' Please help! I drive a '97 Pajero, 2.8TDi (SWB) In the Hayenes Repair Manual The Recommended Lubricants and fluids are as follows.
PAJERO Automobile pdf manual. STRUCTURAL DIAGRAM Diagnosis connector ABS-ECU Valve relay G sensor Wheel speed sensor Stop lamp switch Center differential. The NE three-door Sports and five-door Superwagon added a limited slip differential. 6G72 engine and manual five. Mitsubishi Shogun Mitsubishi Pajero Sfx.
(Only discussing the areas where I would like your input and some explination if you can. (I'm neither an expert nor a complete dummy) Manual trans mission lubricant: SAE 80/90W GL 5 Gear Oil (2,3l) Differential lubricant: SAE 80/90W GL 5 Gear Oil (2,6l) Transfer case lubricant: SAE 80/90W GL 5 Gear Oil (2,4l) Now my questions: 1- What is the difference between GL 4 and GL5 - Is it the viscosity????? Is 4 less thicker than 5?
Your tables recommend GL 4 for Gearbox and Transfer case but GL 5 for Differentials - What is your personal opinion and why? What will you recommend based on experience for (1)Engine, (2)transmission, (3)tranfer case & (4)Differentials: Brand and Spec please!! My drive style is very calm and a lot of times in the bush at idling speeds (Game viewing and photography) and on tar I never exceed 4000 rpm's but will average a drive speed of 110 - 115 km/h, with the revs close to 3000rpm.
Once every 2nd month I'll play along with some friends @ 4x4 venues and use everything the Pajero can deliver. (Within save parameters - I need the vehicle during the week so I can't risk unnecessary breakdowns) That's my story - I'll await your response! Cheers all and thank you 4ePikanini. One or two comments: While both are gear oils and are available in many different viscosity grades, the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 oils is that the latter are designed for situations where a large percentage of sliding occurs at the contact interfaces under high contact pressures (such as in hypoid or amboid gear sets commonly found in differentials' crown wheel and pinion sets). These days there are GL-5 oils that are compatible with yellow metals and can be used in the gearbox, but just make sure on the specific oil before using it. The viscous coupler in the transfer case is a sealed unit and therefore does not depend on the lubricant used in the transfer case for correct operation (unlike the friction plates in the limited slip section of the rear diff in Pajeros so equipped).
Hi all Firstly TNX to all the comments and info! OIL is a bigger subject than one initially thinks! Feedback to what I did. I am a Castrol believer so I went the Castrol route: Engine: Castrol Magnatec Transmission & Transfer Case: Castrol 402 – SAE 75W-85 GL-4 (Fully synthetic Transmission Fluid) COSTLY – but in my opinion simply the best. Differential: (Front and Rear): LSX SAE 90 API GL-5 – It’s an extreme pressure Mineral Gear oil for final drives. (LSX – For Limited slip rear axles) My transmission never gave me any problems but I do experience a difference in gear change – very smooth, excellent!
Hello Guys, This is my first posting in a forum. Need your expertise/Experience in changing gearbox/transfer case/diff Oil change. I have just bought 2002 3.2L manual Pajero NM and us for a complete oil change for peace of mind. I have bought 'Penrite Gear Oil Premium Mineral 80W-90 (GL-5)' from Repco for Gearbox and Castrol VMX-M for transfer case as advised by Repco reps. Now does anyone have experience using this oil? Is it any good?
Can i use same oil for all? On another thread i saw most of you told to stick to Castrol VMX-M. For me it would be cheaper to use Castrol VMX-M (GL-4) for all. Right now I have 3x2.5L Penrite and 1x4L VMX-M. Which way do I go you suggest?
I can still change oil if needed. And the price difference will pay off my clutch fluid change too Thanks in advance.
2004 NP DiD GLX, 5 spd Manual with SMF, ARB Bullbar, Ironman 12000lb winch, Lightforce Genesis lights, Airtec Snorkel, 81L LRA tank, Unifilter, GME 3500 UHF, Redarc elec brake controller, ARB dual Batt tray with 60AH Deep cycle Batt & Redarc Isolator, Bushskinz Sliders, intercooler and sump guards, Lovells raised HD springs, Polyairs & Bilstein shocks, Milford Cargo Barrier, Philips +100 globes, 2nd set of rims with 245/75x16 Bighorns, Waeco 60L Fridge & a Cavalier camper trailer! The penrite will be good for your diffs, but you want to put the VMX-M in both the gearbox and the transfer. Make sure you can get the filler plugs open before you crack the drain plugs! Hi Dan, Thanks for your Reply. Can I use VMX-M in all?
That way I will not end up with half used bottles every where. And actually you have pointed out a good thing. Filler Plug on gearbox, on passenger side near the front of transfer case according to workshop manual seems too low to me. (Am I looking at the correct one??). I am definitely not opening drain plug without opening filler plug first MH. Hi Dan, Thanks for your Reply.
Can I use VMX-M in all? That way I will not end up with half used bottles every where. And actually you have pointed out a good thing.
Filler Plug on gearbox, on passenger side near the front of transfer case according to workshop manual seems too low to me. (Am I looking at the correct one??). I am definitely not opening drain plug without opening filler plug first MH No, the VMX is not good for use in diffs. The gearbox filler is the only plug that is a bit different, it is a bolt with a 17 or 19mm head (can't remember), pretty much right in the middle of the gearbox on the passengers side (behind the front tail shaft).
All other plugs, diff fill and drain, transfer fill and drain and gearbox drain are all the standard 24mm. 2004 NP DiD GLX, 5 spd Manual with SMF, ARB Bullbar, Ironman 12000lb winch, Lightforce Genesis lights, Airtec Snorkel, 81L LRA tank, Unifilter, GME 3500 UHF, Redarc elec brake controller, ARB dual Batt tray with 60AH Deep cycle Batt & Redarc Isolator, Bushskinz Sliders, intercooler and sump guards, Lovells raised HD springs, Polyairs & Bilstein shocks, Milford Cargo Barrier, Philips +100 globes, 2nd set of rims with 245/75x16 Bighorns, Waeco 60L Fridge & a Cavalier camper trailer! At last finished changing oils. Gear box and transfer case oil was not very good looking. And a lot of muddy staff on the drain plug. And found out transfer case had been running a bit low on oil. I have a feeling transfer case seal near from drive shaft (don't know if there is a proper name for this seal yet, will find out soon) is leaking.
Differential Manual Blood Test
Oils marks on front drive shaft!!! Never changed a seal before. But this will be the next project if not too technical. Hope fully someone on this forum knows what it takes to do the job right.
But for now I know she has all new fresh oils and gearbox is so much smoother. Thanks guys for your help.
Top effort, well done! The front tailshaft seal on the transfer is reasonably easy to change.
I had to change mine a couple of years ago. The seal was only 20 something dollars from Mitsubishi.
Drain the transfer and then unbolt and remove the small section of exhaust that travels under the gearbox. Then you can undo the 4x bolts on the front tailshaft. It is a VERY tight squeeze but you can get the tailshaft out. Pop the old seal out with a screwdriver, carefully knock the new one into place and then you can refit the exhaust and tailshaft. 2004 NP DiD GLX, 5 spd Manual with SMF, ARB Bullbar, Ironman 12000lb winch, Lightforce Genesis lights, Airtec Snorkel, 81L LRA tank, Unifilter, GME 3500 UHF, Redarc elec brake controller, ARB dual Batt tray with 60AH Deep cycle Batt & Redarc Isolator, Bushskinz Sliders, intercooler and sump guards, Lovells raised HD springs, Polyairs & Bilstein shocks, Milford Cargo Barrier, Philips +100 globes, 2nd set of rims with 245/75x16 Bighorns, Waeco 60L Fridge & a Cavalier camper trailer! Pity about the mix-up from the Repco guys. How much VMX-M did you use in the transfer and transmission?
Did mine a couple of weeks ago and they took nearly 7 litres of oil between them. Also found my front diff pinion to be leaking. A trick with the refills - I use a couple of cheap 7 Litre garden sprayers with the spray handle removed. One for VMX and one for 80W-90.
Fill up the sprayer with the required amount of oil, hose in the filler plug, pump up and leave to transfer the oil. Cheers - Pat.