Cbr600f 2017 Manual
Q: Can I take this early opportunity to thank CMM for what was my enthusiasm for motorcycling and home mechanics. The problem is with the forks on my CBR600F. Yes I know it’s a jellymould, but better than the Tiger Cub I started my biking with which should give you some idea of my age.
The bike is now 18 years old and I felt, through reading your magazine, that this winter would be an opportunity to renew the fork oil and while I am at it will fit new seals, dust covers and bushes. Following that very detailed manual, Haynes, and with continual turning back to the exploded view of the forks to figure what was supposed to be happening, I very soon had the right fork dismantled. But there is always one, isn’t there? I dismantled the left fork down to the part where it tells me to ‘pull the fork tube sharply outwards until the lower bushing strikes the top bushing, repeat until the top bushing and seal are tapped out of the slider’, yeah, right.
I can only assume that somehow the bottom bush is getting under the top bush and spreading it in the fork slider because there is no way these two parts are going to separate. I tried release oil, heat, brute force and a big hammer, swearing, no, nothing worked. All I’ve done is badly score the fork tube and left the fork slider slightly misshapen.
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So it looks like a search through eBay but they seem to be sold as pairs and I may be faced with the same problem again. Where did I go wrong? Reading your magazine? Tackling things outside my capabilities? Doing the job myself to save a few pennies? That’s funny now. Have you any advice, if you have perhaps met this problem yourself or where do I go from here?
Still a great bike – 1995 CBR A: That is an interesting question. You have checked the Haynes manual, and I have checked both the Clymer and genuine Honda manuals and this should be a fairly straightforward job. Just to check, the drill is to remove the socket head cap screw (Allen bolt) at the bottom of the slider and both the dust seal and snap ring (internal circlip) in the top of the slider, then to do as you say. The only thing that is holding the components together is the fit of both the bush and the oil seal in the slider. I cannot imagine that the bush can be an excessively tight fit as it is made to the correct size and as it is, I believe, copper plated there should be no corrosion sticking it in place.
That leaves just the oil seal, which should come out fairly easily. One thought though: you did remove the snap ring didn’t you? Yes of course you did! These can often be quite hard to remove as they become rusted in place after years of soaking in rainwater and road salt.
Cbr 600f 2017
Maybe some remaining rust was jamming against the oil seal?
The technology: Engine: Somewhat surprisingly, the RR’s 67mm x 42.5mm bore and stroke is exactly the same as the CBR600F model that it replaced, however that’s about the only similarities the two motors share. Considerably narrower than before to give the RR a greater lean angle, the motor is also far shorter to allow for a longer swingarm. By raising the main shaft 48.4mm above the case centerline, the RR’s designers were able to move the countershaft closer to the crank in a triangular layout, resulting in a 30mm reduction in the distance between the crank and swingarm pivot point. And it didn’t stop there, the motor was also positioned 9mm further forward and the exhaust ports tilted 30-degrees downwards to allow them to curve closer to the motor.
New ‘slipper’ pistons saved 15g each, ‘nutless’ conrods (a design featured on the SP-2) also saved weight, a dual sequential fuel-injection system was added and a dual pivot cam chain tensioner helped banish the CBR’s old Achilles’ Heel. Chassis Where do you start? Styled like a mini-RC211V MotoGP bike, in 2003 the CBR600RR was like nothing else.
But underneath the beautiful exterior it was all function. Thanks to the short motor, the Unit Pro-Link swingarm (which is constructed from nine different sections) was 43mm longer than before while the hollow die-cast frame (a two-wheeled world first) owed its design to the RCV and was 1.1kg lighter than the CBR600F’s unit. Tucked partially under the seat the new centrally mounted fuel tank allowed for a larger airbox and improved mass centralisation while triple-spoke cast aluminium wheels reduced unsprung weight.
Honda basically threw the HRC kitchen sink at the RR – and more. What's it like to ride? The CBR600RR was a total revolution when it arrived in 2003, bringing genuine 250GP handling to road riders. The chassis was like nothing else, so light, precise and agile that it destroyed race tracks while there was little wrong with the suspension and brakes aside from lacking the latest ‘cool’ factor. But the engine was a bit of an issue and with Kawasaki launching the big-bore 636cc ZX-6R in the same year, the RR’s desperate need to be thrashed mercilessly due to a lack of mid-range did count against it. If the test involved track riding only, the RR ruled the roost.
If the ride home was also taken into account, the cramped and rev-happy CBR struggled Now. The RR remains a superb handling bike and while the motor was changed over the years, the chassis’ design stayed pretty much the same throughout the RR’s whole 14-year lifespan. It really was that good and well ahead of its time. But the engine can be a pain.
Don’t buy the RR expecting a relaxed supersport bike, it simply isn’t that. The inline four needs to be revved and while a pipe and fuelling map can give it a bit more mid-range, you are always going to struggle.
If you like an engaging machine that rewards spirited riding and loves to be thrashed, the RR rules. If you want a chilled out ride, buy the CBR600F or one of the older supersport rivals. Check for: Early RRs did have a bit of tendency to burn oil, so always check the oil level and listen out for any worrying noises from the motor. As with any supersport bike, give it a good inspection for crash damage and pay particular attention to the swingarm and fork legs as these often get scratched but not replaced. If either has covers or protectors fitted, assume they are hiding damage! The RR’s bodywork is a nightmare to remove and cracked or broken lugs are common, especially under the seat and around the headlight, so look for these and obviously be wary of a replacement fairing as this hints at crash damage.
A lot of RRs have aftermarket accessories fitted, mainly cans and mini-indicators/tail tidies, so check the wiring and watch out for quickshifters, they can create gearbox issues. If the bike has an aftermarket can, check it has also had its fuelling corrected via a Power Commander or ECU reflash. Oddly, a lot of owners report the rubber-coated buttons on the dash like to fall out, so check they aren’t perished or loose.
Updates: The CBR600RR was updated in 2005 when it gained inverted forks and radial brakes. Although the majority of the motor was unchanged, it did gain a boost of midrange through new pistons, narrower intake ports and a revised stainless steel exhaust system, while the RR’s look was slightly sharpened through a new fairing and seat unit and the frame lightened. It’s a small update, but this generation does have a slightly stronger mid-range. Prices: A tatty 2003 CBR600RR can be found for in the region of £2800, but you are better off spending a few quid more and buying a good one for £3500 from a dealer. The RR could well be a future classic, so a tidy bike that is in original condition (or has all its OE parts) is a good buy. Immaculate 2003 bikes go for £4500.
Oddly, prices for the updated 2005 model in decent condition are about the same as the earlier model’s, so you are looking at between £3500 and £4000 for a good one. Is this the ‘future classic’ syndrome already in action, causing inflated prices for the original model? Honda CBR600RR (2003-2006) Specification: Engine 599cc (67mm x 42.5mm), liquid-cooled, 16v inline four Power 115bhp @ 13,500rpm Torque 49ftlb @ 11,000rpm Weight 169kg Seat height 820mm Tank size 18-litres Servicing intervals: Minor: 4000-mile/yearly – expect to pay in the region of £150 Major: 8000-mile/ two-years – expect to pay in the region of £250 Valve clearance: 16,000-miles - expect to pay in the region of £450. Bennetts is a trading name of Saga Services Limited, company number 732602 registered in England and Wales. Registered address: Enbrook Park, Sandgate, Folkestone, Kent CT20 3SE. For information on how your personal data will be used please read our Privacy & Cookie Policy.
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