Coleman Mach Thermostat Air Conditioner Manual
If you are unfamiliar with how a motorhome air conditioning system works, will help you understand which parts of the motorhome rooftop air conditioner unit to check, service, and repair. Briefly, your air conditioner, which may be combined with a heating system, includes a compressor—to circulate a cooling fluid like Freon through the coils and fins of the condenser—and a fan, to blow cooled air through the RV. The fan and compressor are turned on and off by a thermostat—a switch attached to a thermometer—and kick-started by one or more capacitors. The thermostat and other controls are run by the vehicle's 12-volt electrical system.
Products 12 - 4058 - INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 8330A324* 8330A344* 24 VAC AIR CONDITIONER THERMOSTATS. COLEMAN®-MACH® AIR CONDITIONERS. All manual controls have been removed from the ceiling. Thermostats replaces the mount plate provided with.
If your AC does nothing and makes no noise, make sure your unit and its controls are getting power. If your AC fan or compressor is slow to start, doesn't blow any air, blows weakly, blows only warm air, stops after a while, dims your lights, or trips your breaker, you should first check your capacitors and replace them if needed. If there's no air blowing, check the fan capacitor; if there's no cooling, check the compressor capacitor. If the capacitor is okay, you should look at whether the thermostat is getting power by checking whether the 12-volt appliaces work. You can check the function of the thermostat if it's wall-mounted. If the unit only works when thermostat wires are touching, the thermostat is bad.
The thermostat is easy to replace. If the capacitor and thermostat are okay, the control board may be bad. If the control board is okay, you may have to replace the fan motor or the compressor. If the fan only works at certain speeds, the fan motor may be bad. You can have the fan motor rebuilt (if it's not the sleeved-bearing type). Or you can replace the fan motor yourself if the unit is in good shape otherwise. If the compressor is bad, it should probably be replaced, not fixed.
If your system drips or overheats, the coils may need cleaning. If the roof AC leaks, the bolts may be loose or the gasket may be leaking. If the system is very cold or ice builds up, it may be low on Freon. If the unit is noisy, something out of place may be interfering with its motors; you can check by removing the shroud. If the fan or the compressor fail to start, it is possible the starting capacitor is malfunctioning.
A bad capacitor can cause a variety of symptoms: the AC unit merely hums and 'tries' to start, it runs a few minutes then trips a breaker, the fan won't start without a push, or it blows only hot air because the compressor can't start. The capacitor stores electricity to give both the fan motor and the compressor an extra boost whenever the RV AC unit starts. It is not unusual for the capacitor to go bad, especially if the RV sits unused for a while, and not be able to provide that little push that gets the motors going. On occasion a bad capacitor will explode with a puff of smoke without damaging the rest of the unit. There may be one capacitor for both compressor and fan, two capacitors (one for each part), or even three or more all together.
A capacitor is often shaped like a small battery, flask, or button. If you have a multimeter in your tool kit, you can use it to test the capacitor. A good capacitor should show a random value on the multimeter that slowly decreases the longer you keep the probes in place.
A bad capacitor is easy to replace. Check the required voltage and model numbers on the old capacitor when ordering a new one.
When replacing it, make sure the power is off. Observe which wires go into it where, and make a note so you can install the new one exactly the same way. Don't touch its terminals with your bare hands. Before you throw the old capacitor away, drain out its electrical charge by connecting its terminals with a screwdriver (make sure the screwdriver handle you are holding is insulated).
Very often, your AC unit will start and run fine after you replace a capacitor. A bad thermostat is another possibility. If you have a wall-mounted thermostat, you can check it by checking its voltage with your multimeter. If the unit only goes on when you touch the thermostat wires to each other, the thermostat is definitely bad. If the thermostat and capacitors are all okay but the AC still doesn't work, you may have a bad control board.
Thermostats and switches may be purchased online by finding the correct model and serial numbers before ordering the new parts. These items are easy to replace in most cases.
As always, make note of and remember the wiring connections when replacing these electrical components. If after you check these electrical items your AC still doesn't blow out air, or it blows only at certain speeds, your fan motor may be bad. If your AC blows but only hot air comes out, your compressor may be bad. Sometimes—not necessarily—a fan or compressor smokes or leaks oil when it goes bad.
A compressor that is working should turn on audibly and feel warm to the touch. You can test a compressor with a clamp-on ammeter, if you can rent or borrow one. Check how many amps the compressor is drawing.
If it draws much more current than the amp rating written on the unit or on a nearby plate, the compressor is toast. Fan motors come in two types: with exposed bearings which may be lubricated easily or with sleeved bearings (see the last photo in the article). The first type of fan motor may be rebuilt fairly cheaply and will last for many more years. But not so a sleeved-bearing AC fan motor. Unlike fan motors with bearings, a fan motor with sleeves cannot be rebuilt economically, and must be replaced with a new one if it goes bad. If your AC unit seems to be in pretty good shape otherwise, you can order a new AC fan motor to fit your particular unit. There are many sizes and models to choose from.
Check the numbers on your old motor. By looking at pictures and descriptions on Amazon you may be able to identify a universal motor that will fit your unit. Replacement of the AC fan motor is a simple job requiring only a few tools.
If the electrical connection to the motor isnt a simple plug-in, mark down the colors of the wires before removing the old fan motor. Test the new fan motor, before replacing the AC shroud, to check for proper alignment and fan clearance.
If your AC does run, but only with problems—overheating, dripping, being way too cold—you can address these problems too. Overheating may be due to a simple failure to clean the coils—something I show you how to do in the second half of this article. When the coils are clean they can disperse excess heat into the air. If water leaks into your unit and seems to come from the AC, investigate to see where it is coming from. The leak may come from the gasket between the unit and the roof; if so, it's easy to address. Tighten the bolts carefully, and if that doesn't work, replace the gasket.
Dripping from the unit itself may be caused by water condensing in the wrong place (in the pan under the air conditioner) instead of being evaporated by the fan. Such water buildup may be due to dirty coils, and if so, you can cure it by cleaning the coils. If your unit blows very cold and builds up ice—and especially if it later stops cooling at all—it may be low on Freon. Sometimes you can see a visible oily residue around a Freon leak. You may be able to add Freon to your system yourself with a self-piercing valve. If your motor is noisy, you can investigate the problem by taking the shroud (the cover) off the roof AC unit and seeing if everything is in place.
The rubber shock absorbers on the compressor and fan may be interfering with the motion of the unit. Maintenance gives your AC longer life and better efficiency. Roof air conditioning units on motorhomes are the same as ones used on other types of RV campers such as travel trailers and pop-up campers. These repair and maintenance procedures are identical for all these types of campers. After a few seasons of use, it isn’t unusual for the AC unit to not cool the motorhome as quickly or as efficiently as it once did. Even if you clean the filters regularly, the evaporator and condenser coils will eventually become coated with dirt and grime, which inhibits airflow and cooling efficiency. Before attempting any maintenance or repairs on the rooftop AC unit, be sure to switch off the electrical supply to the unit, either by tripping the breaker or by unplugging the motorhome from the electrical receptacle.
You are now ready to remove the RV AC shroud (above) by unscrewing the four bolts securing it to the RV AC unit itself. After removing the AC shroud you will be able to see the evaporator and condenser coils on either end of the RV AC unit. If they appear similar to those in the photos above then they need a thorough cleaning to allow unrestricted airflow through them. Although regular household cleaners may clean the coils to a certain extent, AC coil cleaners made especially for the purpose, like ZEP Foaming Coil Cleaner, will remove the grime build-up much more efficiently and will not harm the coils themselves. Follow the instructions carefully for the best results. A good wet/dry Shop Vac will help you clean up afterward and remove any excess cleaner or grime from the RV AC unit. While the RV AC shroud is removed, it is a good time to service the fan motor and clean the fan itself.
Whether your RV AC unit is made by Coleman, Carrier, Duotherm, or Dometic, it will have one fan motor which turns both the squirrel-cage fan and the heat exhausting fan. This motor should be oiled at this time. If your RV AC fan motor has regular bearings, there will be oiling ports at each end of the motor.
It may be necessary to remove the metal sheeting over the top of the fan motor, plus a few sheet metal screws, to access the bearing oiling ports. If no oil ports are evident, then your motor has sleeves instead of bearings. You may still oil the shaft at the point where the sleeves enter the fan motor housing. The oil will seep inside and help the fan motor last much longer. Hello Randy, Thank you for this site. We have a 2015 Southwind 32 with two dometic roof airs.
When we drive, in hot weather, we run them off the Onan 5500 generator. After 20-45 min they stop functioning, even tho the generator is still running.
We stop the generator, reset the main cabin and aux. Rocker switches, wait a bit, then power up, and after a bit they come back on only to do the same thing again, in a matter of time. We have tried running just one, but the same result. At night, when sleeping, they work off the generator, as designed, no problem.
Any thoughts? Ronnie Sue, yes it's relatively easy to replace a capacitor. You probably have one each for the compressor and fan motor. Just be careful when changing the caps to not touch the terminals with your bare hands unless you discharge them first by crossing the terminals with a screwdriver. I sell a lot of capacitors from Amazon which is where you can go to see what you're looking for and for finding a replacement capacitor.
Cost around $25 or so.Just remove the shroud to access the caps. I have 3 Dometic 15000 BTU A/C units, model is either 630515 or 630516. We are on 30 amp service and have been running only 1 unit at a time. It's very hot here (100+) and we left one unit running while we went out for the day. We came back to find the circuit breaker was tripped and of course the a/c unit was off. We are getting the motor to run, but no cool air. I read a comment/article here which makes it sound like a capacitor?
Do you have any suggestions as to what my next step is? If it is a capacitor, is that something that is easy (for a handy person) to fix?
Where to purchase capacitor? Thanks so much. I'm glad i found this website! I have 2013 Salem TT with a domestic roof top air.
The unit runs and cools but the compressor stays on until the thermostat temp is reached. The compressor does not seem to be cycling to prevent the coil from freezing up.
It will eventually freeze up and chunks of Ice will fall off the coil into the squire fan and over flow the drain pan and leak into the trailer. I have cleaned the coils and flushed out the drain holes. There are no oily spots around the compressor or coils that I could see. I have ran the unit and stuck the thermocouple in a cup of Ice water for a few minutes would this be an indication that the thermal couple is bad.
My older rooftop coleman awlways works great no problem. Ive had camper 4 summers. Used it on july 4.lots od water dripping off side of roof. This past week had company staying in it,plugged camper into house outside outlet.
Frigidaire Air Conditioner Manual
A/C wouldnt bliw cold air, hooked up generator,still no cold air. Company leaves today i turn thermostat up to 37,and on a whim turn on A/C.it works its bliwing cold air. DoI take it in to be serviced and cleaned,my fan doesn't work on med,only low and high.i have never cleaned A/C unit.
The quote is 200$ to look at it and remedy problem but now its blowing cold. What should i do? I have 2 rooftop Acs duotherm on my 2001 National RV.
The back unit (not the thermostat but up in the in the unit itself) makes a sound similar to a thermostat clicking intermittently even with the breaker off. It works fine when on, cold air etc but this clicking drives us nuts. It clicks no matter the settings on the thermostat (Like temp set all the way up or down, fan auto or on, system set off, cool, heat) and breaker off I can only get rid of it by cutting the power completely to the coach (battery disconnect).
Wow, I just lost my whole.paragraph. Guess that's a hint to shorten it up. Just bought a 99 26 ft Jayco Eagle that I am really unsure of the history on. Everything works including the A/C which has been running on auto about 78 degrees low speed for 3 weeks. 4 days ago the breaker flipped. I went on the roof removed the shroud, looked at everything, I don't possess the skill set to check a compressor or capacitor. Lubed her up, straightened the fins and she came back on.
It stopped running again last night and did not flip a breaker. It will not come back on now.
What do you suggest. So no one is open.
The AC is the original, she runs cold when on. I found something on it that says FASCO made in Mexico HP 1/3, amp 3.4 =Capacitor?
Then on the compressor the date is H2898, Serial number 311926, motor info TCB. Where should I start or do you think its life span is over.
I read your article and the thermostat and breaker seem fine. I have a 30 amp panel for the RV. Thank you Randy.
I have a Coleman model 8335 Roof Mounted A/C. On shore power it normally works, but on Solar (5000 Watt inverter) or generator (4.5 Kw Onan) it trips breakers. I found that the running Amps is 14.5 - 16.2, While on shore power, if I turn the A/C's 20 Amp breaker off and then back on, the start up Amps is sometimes 55 - 60 Amps. I replaced the hard start capacitor as well as the fan and compressor caps.
The unit blows cold air when working. I need to be able to run this on both generator and inverter.
I have a coleman mach single cooling rooftop unit. Been having trouble with this unit for over a yr. Replaced the board and the fan motor. Checked all capacitors. All check good. Unit runs and cycles and blows cold.
Unit will run for 3-4 hrs then cycle off normally and then not come back on. Sometimes it will kick back on in an hr or two and sometimes it wont. Here's the part that confuses me is that when it quits neither my fan nor my ac cool on the thermostat works. Any suggestions?
Randy, I knew I saved this link for a reason. Great article and info. I apologize for length of my description Disabled, lost it all 2013, living in a 1999 Win. Colman Mach 700 & 800. Unable to go up top myself, use backyard mechanics if I'm lucky.
The Last one up showed me a duck taped together shroud I didn't realize was damaged, I replaced it. Front unit, I bought an A/M hard start cap 2014 fixed problem worked. Mech said I needed a motor that I could hear running tried the less expensive extra Cap.
First Presently Fan alone try's but does not start and amp meter jumps over 30 then back down But the A/C works good Rear unit I tried H/S Cap Feb. 2018 Fan works strong even helps push front A/C but rear air gets warm after a while. Figured something was not wired exactly right In March A/C Tripped 30A shore power, and would not start after the reset. I put rear unit out of service Tried starting it recently, and bedroom fan was working again. But when A/C is on, every few minutes I hear revs,cycles, load change like with generator? I'm not sure of the terminology? Amp meter jumps over 40 briefly when it does that.
Both thermostats seem ok Mobil service $120-$150hr 2hr minimum + travel 1hr each way. If I have to call them out I sure would not want them to have, to come back, after they order parts that I can have ready when they arrive. From reading your site and advice you gave too others I would guess Start Cap up front? The rear I couldn't even-make guess and some how, these units are wired together?
Example: Front unit shuts off for some reason, I put switch in off position for a bit then turn switch to on and nothing? I return switch to off position, turn on rear unit for 1 minute, turn it off. Go back to the front unit and it turns on easily. The same procedure works in opposite order. Show Details Necessary HubPages Device ID This is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons. Login This is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service.
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